I said fat, yes đ This is one of the well-deserved nicknames of Bologna. It is an underappreciated jewel left behind in the tourist cities of Italy. It might be surprising considering Bolognaâs reputation as the gastronomic centre of Italy. Bologna is a city that is not to be missed for food lovers and lovers of art, history, cinema, and the outdoors. Interestingly, it makes you want to dance as you stroll through its streets. You cannot get enough of watching. It is a great choice to spend 2-3 days in peace.
It is also very easy to get to other popular cities such as Rome and Milan from here. The cityâs rail transportation network is excellent! You can also take a day trip to Modena Parma if you want. This is one of our favourite Italian cities. It doesnât tire you out; itâs the kind of city that makes other tourist cities look like the back of your hand. You fall in love with Rome, but it gets serious in Bologna.
General information about Bologna
- Bologna is the capital of the Emilia Romagna region in Northern Italy. It is that sweet city right between Verona and Florence!
- The University of Bologna is the first university established in Italy and Europe.
- The most common thing you will see in Bologna is Portico or porticoes. Spread over 60 kilometres, these covered sidewalks serve as natural umbrellas for walkers in the rain and snow and protect from the wind while offering natural shade and coolness in the hot days of summer đ
The entrances were born out of social needs. As the university centre proliferated, new residential and commercial areas were needed. From the first floor, residents began to create additional space in their homes by extending the buildings outwards. The overhang was supported by wooden beams resting on stone or selenite blocks, creating an entrance below.
Itâs good to know that Bologna is famous for the lovely porticoes that adorn many of the city centreâs buildings. Bolognaâs porticoes are so unique that they are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
- Bologna has three nicknames: La dotta, la grassa, and la Rossa, which mean knowledgeable, fat, and red. These nicknames characterize the city.
- Piazza Maggiore, the cityâs main square, is closed to weekend traffic but is open on weekdays.
- You can enjoy your trip to Bologna best on foot! Although there is plenty of public transportation in the city, bus travel does not do Bologna justice. So take advantage of the cityâs walkability and walk as much as possible.
- If you are taking the bus – and you will need to take it from the airport – it is best to either buy tickets in advance from the electronic machines at the train/bus stations or look for a âTabacchiâ store (marked with a capital T) and validate your tickets when you board.
- Card use is widespread in Bologna, but although many establishments accept cards, carrying some cash with you is always safer for convenience, especially in small shops (which may require a minimum spend for card use) and public transportation.
- Restaurants in Bologna adhere to reasonably strict meal times/operating hours, usually 12:00-15:00 for lunch and 19:30-23:00 for dinner. Finding the perfect sit-down meal outside of these hours will be difficult. So, do your research and make sure to note the hours of your restaurant on your bucket list.
- In Italy, they usually charge a âcoperto,â a table service fee. Coperto is not a tip. In our country, it is a cheaper fee. You may tip a little less when the coperto is included.
- Locals drink their espresso (called âcaffĂšâ) at the bar and stand up. It is also cheaper than sitting in the restaurant.
- Latte means âmilkâ in Italian. If you order a latte, the baristas will not hesitate to offer you a real glass of milkâand yes, I have witnessed this. Instead, ask for a latte macchiato (milk with a shot of espresso).
- Takeaway coffee culture does not exist here, so donât expect every cafĂ© to have takeaway options. Like the locals, you will likely want to stop at the bar and have a quick coffee. Sitting at tables costs extra.
Transportation
Transportation from Bologna Airport to City Center
On our previous trip, there was a bus. Now that is gone, which is very good. Now there is such an easy and fast transportation: Marconi Express, a monorail line in Bologna. It takes only 7 minutes and 20 seconds to reach Bologna Centrale train station. Opening hours are 05.40-00.00. You can buy your tickets
You can get one way 11 euro, and the flexible return is 20 euro (2023). Check the Marconi Express page for ticket prices and more information.
A more expensive alternative is a taxi, which can cost around âŹ20-25 and take 15 to 30 minutes (2023). This makes sense if you have a lot of luggage or your accommodation is not in the centre.
Getting to Bologna by Train
The main station is Bologna Centrale, about 10 minutes from the Piazza Maggiore, the cityâs main square. Bologna is easy to reach by train from Milan, Florence, Rome, Venice, or Naples. It can also be reached by high-speed trains from other European capitals, including Vienna and Paris.
Urban Transportation in Bologna
Most of the sights in Bologna can be reached on foot. Therefore, the main mode of transportation to get around the city is on foot. There are numerous bus lines for public transportation. These are less important than they are for tourist purposes. You can take the bus to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca, but believe me, itâs optional.
Accommodation
It is always better to be close to the city centre, especially if you are visiting for the first time đ It is a small city, and everything is in a circle when you think about the places to see and activities to do. You will keep saying, âOh, didnât we pass through here?â Donât forget that this is a young town with a big university. With students coming and going, visiting family and friends and finding affordable accommodation can be difficult. You can guarantee finding the right place in a cheaper area by booking early.
How many days do you stay?
Bologna is a tiny city. In one or 1.5 days, you can see everything there is to see, but this city is so sweet and pleasant, full of streets, buildings, and delicious food to just sit and watch. I would definitely recommend three full days. If you have one more day, you can even go to Verona or Modena.
Places to visit in Bologna
Piazza Maggiore Let’s start in Bologna’s main square, Piazza Maggiore. The heart of Bologna is directly here. No matter which way you go, every road will lead you here. Some of the main attractions of Bologna are located here. Also, street artists add a sweet ambience here. Keep up with the rhythm of the music.
Basilica of San Petronio: The main church in Bologna, the Basilica of San Petronio, is in the middle of Piazza Maggiore. Its facade is quite remarkable. It still needs to be completed still needs to be completed, but only half of it is covered with marble. At first glance, you will almost believe that this is how it should be. The Basilica of San Petronio is the fifth-largest church in the world and the largest brick church. You can visit the inside of the church for free. Of course, if you want to take photos, you must pay 2 euros.
One of the highlights of the Basilica of San Petronio is the Terrazza panorama terrace at the back. From this 54-meter-high point, you can enjoy a beautiful view. It costs 3 euros to go up to the terrace. This terrace is the best photo location!
Bolognaâs Leaning Towers / Garisenda and Asinelli: The iconic buildings of Bologna are these two leaning towers called Garisenda and Asinelli. There were once plenty of these towers in Bologna. Significantly, the smaller of the two towers, Garisenda, is so leaning… Itâs wild! You can only enter the more enormous tower, Asinelli. After 498 wooden steps, you will reach the absolute most spectacular view of Bologna. Itâs worth the blood and sweat climb. But donât do it with a small child! The birdâs eye view of the city is simply amazing. There is a grill for safety reasons, but you can take photos from inside without any problem.
Our tip: Only a limited number of people are allowed up the tower at any time of the day. It is essential to book your ticket in advance, preferably a few days in advance. It takes 45 minutes to go up and down the tower.
Entrance to the Asinelli Tower: 5 euro (2023)
Biblioteca Comunale dellâArchiginnasio: Just a few steps from Piazza Maggiore, you will see the magnificent Palazzo dellâArchiginnasio, one of Bolognaâs main attractions. This architectural masterpiece is also home to the former University of Bologna. As a visitor, you can only see selected areas. Strolling through the courtyard, stairs, and corridors is free. For 3 euros you can also visit the historic anatomy room and the stabat-mater room. The wood-panelled anatomy hall (Anatomy Theater) is smaller than expected but unique. The most prominent feature of the stabat-mater room is the view overlooking the library area.
Universita di Bologna: the oldest continuously operating university in the world, founded in 1088 by an organized student guild.
Quadrilatero District: East of Piazza Maggiore, you will reach the small but vibrant Quadrilatero neighbourhood, which is worth a visit. A maze of narrow streets lined with market stalls, delicatessens, and restaurants awaits you here. During the day, locals and tourists drink espresso and buy food here. In the evening, people meet for an aperitivo. Fun trivia: Ceccarelli, the delicatessen mentioned by the Austrian band Wanda in their hit song âBologna,â is also located here.
The crowded, narrow streets of the Quadrilatero market are arguably the best place to experience local life in Bologna. As the most central city market, youâd expect it to be full of tourist-oriented gimmicks, but itâs quite the opposite. On weekday mornings, the streets are packed with city folk shopping for produce, fish, meat and other local foods from local vendors. Youâll hear the shouts of fishermen selling the dayâs catch and get your fill of the smell of yeast from bakeries making fresh bread. For a truly local experience, head to the Quadrilatero vendors to buy fresh pastries, regional products like aceto balsamico and even fresh pasta.
Picturesque Piazza Santo Stefano: Piazza delle Sette Chiese is one of the most beautiful squares in Bolognaâs old town. In addition to the beautiful facades of Renaissance palaces, the Basilica of Santo Stefano, which is the same name, also attracts everyoneâs attention. This is a church complex. Be sure to go inside and visit it. I was at the door at the first hour of the morning; there was no one there, and there was a church after every door. It was a bit creepy but a wonderful experience for me.
My recommendation: It is worth visiting the Basilica of Santo Stefano. This church complex consists of several buildings and porticoes. It is nicknamed âSeven Churchesâ because it contains seven churches. There is another little treasure around every corner, and the entrance is completely free.
Little Venice: North of Bologna city centre, a miniature version of Venice exists. Here, you will find traces of Bologna, which used to have an extensive canal system. The most famous âview of Veniceâ is on Via Piella. Behind it, you will find a small, unassuming window where the iconic view called âFinestrellaâ is hidden. The view from the Canale di Reno is breathtaking.
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca: The pilgrimage church Santuario della Madonna di San Luca is located on a hill about 300 meters high southwest of Bolognaâs city centre. The church is most famous for the San Luca market, which starts in the centre of Bologna at the old city gates of Porta Saragozza and stretches for 4 kilometres to the church. If youâre feeling sporty, you can go up on foot.
Suggestion: Take the San Luca Express, the tourist line that connects the historic centre of Bologna with the enchanting Basilica, immersed in the splendour of the Bolognese hills, with iconic red trains departing from Piazza Maggiore. 12 euros for adults, 3 euros for 0-5 years (2023).
Biblioteca Salaborsa, Located next to the Fountain of Neptune, is best known for its glass floor displaying Roman ruins. Itâs worth a visit, especially if you have children! Salaborsa has tons of books for kids (in several languages), multiple areas for little ones to play, free Wi-Fi for parents, and good toilets with changing stations. It also has a lovely cafe.
Palazzo dâAccursio: If youâre interested in architecture and art, you will love these buildings! There is also an art gallery inside the Palazzo dâAccursio. You can visit it for 5 euros (2023).
Sala Farnese Located next to the Biblioteca Salaborsa, Palazzo dâAccursio offers one of the best views of Piazza Maggiore, which you can get for free. All you have to do is go inside and follow the âSala Farneseâ signs up two flights of stairs. The view of Bologna from here is a must-see. Look for the stairs, go up two flights and turn left. You will see some signs that will point you in the right direction. I want to remind you that it opens at 10:00. To get a more impressive view, you can climb the clock tower. You must pay 8 euros to climb the Clock Tower (2023).
Ghetto Ebraico: A historic Jewish ghetto, the Ghetto Ebraico neighbourhood dates back to the 16th century and remains one of Bolognaâs most popular neighbourhoods today. It has winding streets, creative street art, cool bars, and cafes. Itâs a great place to have a drink while people-watching in the coolest part of Bologna.
Mercato delle Erbe: Designed in 1910, the Mercato delle Erbe features typical food stalls selling fruit and vegetables, fish, meat and other local products. Here, locals always set out to shop or stop by one of these restaurants for a meal with friends. After wandering inside, head to the square behind the market, where the street is lined with local watering points. Senza Nome is a popular spot for locals to grab a drink or aperitivo.
Venue Recommendations
CaffĂš Terzi: This place is absolutely perfect for a short coffee break. Itâs already one of the most popular hangouts. Do as the locals do and enjoy an espresso at the counter. Add a cornetto to flavour your espresso in this cheap and authentic place.
Aroma Specialty Coffees: For me, it has become as memorable as Tailor and a place I want to visit again and again. Itâs like I came here in a time machine; itâs a different feeling. They also have tables outside under the portico. The service is speedy, and they bring the products on a silver tray. The barista is already great. Cappuccino is the best! Espresso is also good. But the other thing about this place is the specialty coffee. Try the zabaglione espresso and torinese đ đ
CafĂ© Pastry Gamberini: This is one of Bolognaâs rare cafes/pastry shops. Its espresso is also very successful. Of course, there is also aperitivo hour. All the tables outside are full. Itâs enormous. Itâs always crowded. So, if you find a quiet moment, it is enjoyable to be at the bar. The first thing you eat here should be cannoli. You get cannoli with pistachios, and the feast begins when you put it in your mouth. The price is also reasonable.
Mozzarella is a small pizzeria in one of Bolognaâs many hidden cobblestone streets. Its pizzas cost as little as 5 euros, and they are fresh, filling, and super delicious (2023)!
Pasta Fresca Naldi: For those who know Pastificio Guerra in Roma, step forward! Open since 1985, Pasta Fresca Naldi is one of the most popular pasta shops in Bologna. Although Naldiâs tiny shop serves a variety of pastas, there are no tables. Everything is sold on a takeaway basis. We squat on the sidewalk across the street. The flavour is worth it.
Suggestion: You can eat pasta from Pasta Fresca Naldi at the bar across the street. You can order a drink and enjoy your meal. Please donât be shy, because everyone does it.
Zapap Pratello is a local, cheap, and delicious pizza restaurant. Especially if you visit in spring, make sure to sit at the tables outside. Enjoy the beautiful street, the cyclists, and the feeling of being in Bologna. Meanwhile, sip your drink and wait for your pizza with excitement. The inside of the place is very shabby, but the outside is suitable for families. It is one of the price/performance places. Take it!
Pappare Bolognaâs best breakfast option without exception! Drown me in pastry, put me between croissants. Oh wait, they also have breakfast plates with omelettes and jams. They are open not only for breakfast but also for lunch and dinner. The only thing I hate about this place is the queue. You have to queue several times to get something. Anyway, itâs worth it. I hope you come across a quiet moment. Ensure you get the pain au chocolate; I love the cream inside. There are so many croissants; they have added vegan options, too; itâs wild. Their sandwiches are also very successful.
Tamburini: This is the best deli in Bologna for me. The lasagna is delicious. We had the cheese and charcuterie plate. We didnât leave a single crumb on the table. The servers are cheerful and helpful. It is a perfect shop for those who want to buy Parmigiano Reggiano as a souvenir. It is the correct address for tasting. Daily dishes, cheeses, and smoked meats are exquisite! Hereâs what we ate: Lasagna, Buffalo e Pomodori with mozzarella, Selezione Parmigiano with Parmesan. The charcuterie is delicious; try their cheeses.
Pizzeria Ranzani 13: We are already in a local city that is not touristy. But this place is still a jewel because youâll eat an AMAZING PIZZA! Itâs a bit outside the city centre, or rather a bit off the beaten path. But itâs walkable. We even came with the kids, so itâs worth a stop.
Cremeria Santo Stefano: The best ice cream weâve had in a long time! Classic flavours, as well as some unusual ones. Itâs small but perfect, with artisanal flavours. There is always a queue, and locals buy kilos and ice cream. Try the Lebanese cream and pistachio. Some days, they also have Maritozzi. It has a unique flavour. And the staff are kind.
Cremeria Mascarella: A cheap and excellent ice cream experience. The pina colada, pistachio, stracciatella, fior di latte heeeps were very good.
La Sorbetteria Castiglione: This place was my favourite until I tried Cremeria Santo Stefano and Cremeria Mascarella, but it lost the first place. Too much sugar this time. But that doesnât mean you shouldnât try it. I think Iâve tried so many ice creams that Iâm a little spoiled đ đ
Sfoglia Rina: One of the best pasta dishes ever! This centrally located and very popular pasta place serves tortellini. Food service opens at noon. You can also buy fresh pasta here to take with you or to cook at your accommodation.
Perfect for a quick lunch. You pay 10% less if you eat your pasta standing up at the bar. It is a family-friendly, cozy pasta restaurant with menus for kids and adults. Everything is excellent, and the tortellini and lasagna are all very special! Come here.
Osteria dellâOrsa: Open daily from noon to midnight in the heart of the university district, this unpretentious osteria is frequented by university students who come for good food, primarily classic regional dishes and reasonable prices.
Recommendation: Be sure to try Osteria dell’Orsa’s Brodo Tortelli. The portion is much more significant than Tagliatelle alla Ragu. If you are two people, ask for one; they will serve you two servings. If you go on a winter day, this dish will warm you up!
La Prosciutteria: This is a delicatessen where sitting and spending more time is more pleasant. The location and the view from the outside are so beautiful that you say, âSomething happy is going on insideâ before you even enter! So much so that you donât realise how time passes inside. The wooden presentation boards filled with fruits, sautĂ©ed vegetables, olives, cheese, and other delicatessen products make you swoon. The bread is legendarily delicious. No friend, this Italian flour is different!
Suggestion: The difference between this place and other delicatessens is the ambience. It is suitable for sitting for a long time and having a pleasant time. The delicious and inspiring decorations and objects create a feast.
Il Forno di Un Chicco: My heart goes out to this place. Itâs a fantastic bakery. You need to take a break hereâgo hungry! Buy a sandwich here for breakfast in the morning; the cookies, the bread, everything is fantastic!
Osteria Broccaindosso: Donât touch this one if you are eliminating places! It is one of the most famous osterias in Bologna, serving typical Bolognese food. We had the charcuterie plate to start; the ragu was delicious. You should share everything and leave room for tiramisu and mascarpone.
Salumeria Simoni: Gosh, we finally went crazy trying to figure out which one to get into! Another popular place from the delicatessen market is full of cold meats and cheeses. Inside, you can taste cheese and meat (mortadella, prosciutto, pecorino, etc.) or enjoy at the tables. It is worth a visit! If you want to know where it is located, it is a short walk from Piazza Maggiore! Ideal for aperitifs.
Shopping in Bologna
Rizzoli Street: Bologna’s shopping street. If you want to shop, you can take a tour here. Go to the market for pasta. I strongly recommend you buy Parmesan from Tamburini đ Parmesan is not a problem in cabin luggage.
Flying Tiger: There are two here. There is something to buy đ
Via Oberdan and Strada Maggiore in the Santo Stefano neighbourhood are home to some of the most original and charming shops. Giocheria/Giocattoli Bologna and Citta del Sole Bologna are used for toy shops, and Bassetto Bimbi is used for baby shops.
The antique market Mercato Antiquario (via Santo Stefano) and Via San Vitale with its antique shops.
Should you go to Bologna with the children?
It is one of the most popular Italian cities for travelling with children. Famous for its exceptional food and old university, Bologna has a beautiful historic city centre, green areas and great museums for kids. Why visit Bologna with children?
- It has exceptional food and family-friendly restaurants that live up to its reputation as the food capital of Italy.
- It has a beautiful historic centre with car-free areas that are easy to explore with kids.
- Itâs stroller-friendly and mostly flat. Walking under the porticoes is very pleasant. The floors have a smooth surface, so theyâre perfect for wheels!
- In Bologna, there is FICO, Italyâs food-themed park, with many options for kids, including kid-friendly museums and workshops.
- Itâs safe, well-organized and easy to get around.
- It has an excellent transportation network that makes it easy to get around by plane, car and train.
- Also, due to its location, you can quickly and affordably travel to other popular Italian cities by train.
Using a Stroller: Getting around Bologna with a stroller is easy. The pavement under the porticoes is smooth, and the sidewalks are wide. Sometimes, you will encounter a few steps.
Changing Diapers: The best public toilet (with a changing area) is on Via IV November, near the main square (Piazza Maggiore). Another great place to change diapers or use the restroom is the Salaborsa Library (Biblioteca Salaborsa) next to the Fountain of Neptune.
Car-Free Streets: Notfew places in Bologna are closed to vehicular traffic; there is always a taxi or local car. So watch out for the little ones. We found the area between Piazza Santo Stefano and Piazza della Coralzia nice for children to move freely.
Bonus: Just over an hourâs drive from Bologna, you have miniature Italy, a super fun park for little kids where you can see all of Italy in small models that will make you feel like a giant! Car enthusiasts should also make the most of their stay in this region to visit the excellent Ferrari and Lamborghini Museums in the Modena area. They are easily accessible from Bologna by train + shuttle or car.
Best Things to Do with Kids
Visit Biblioteca Salaborsa
Let your children spend time in different childrenâs areas separated by age. Walk into that area to pass the fun mirrors and murals. Salaborsa is the childrenâs area of the historical library of Bologna, conveniently located in Piazza Nettuno, the heart of Bolognaâs city centre. Salaborsa has tons of books for children (in several languages), a space for little ones to play, free Wi-Fi for parents and good toilets with a changing station. With summer air conditioning and winter heating, Salaborsa is one of the best places in Bologna to take a break on a rainy day and escape the sweltering summer heat. The library regularly hosts events for children. So itâs also a great place to connect with other families and Italian children.
Try the âMedieval Telephoneâ at Palazzo Del Podesta in Piazza Maggiore
The unique thing here is the acoustics. Walking under this arch, you often see people talking to the wall. We donât want you to wonder if they are crazy. Stand on two opposite corners of the Voltone del PodestĂ and speak softly towards the wall. Whoever is on the other side will hear you very well. At the four corners, on the columns supporting the vault, there are many statues depicting the patron saints of the city: San Petronio, San Francesco, San Domenico and San Procolo. Anyway, letâs get back to the acoustics. There is a legend about this unique sound emission. Once upon a time, plague patients confessed to the priest in this way. So they wouldnât spread the disease. Another more romantic legend says it was a way to declare love. Locals call it the âmedieval telephoneâ.
See the view from Via Piella and Finestrella!
Visiting this place is a must in Bologna, and it will be fun for kids, too. It was one of the secrets of Bologna until a few years ago, but it has become increasingly popular over the years.
Have a Picnic and Explore the Parks!
Giardini Margherita is a large public park in the south of the city and a very popular place for local families to hang out, picnic, bike, relax, and play sports, especially on weekends. You will find large green areas, childrenâs playgrounds, a pond with a caterpillar train, a carousel, turtles, various cafes, and food courts for snacks and ice cream. Itâs heaven for families with children!
Spend time at Parco Europa
Another favourite playground in the area was Parco Europa in San Lazzaro di Savena, just outside Bologna. If youâre near Parco 11 Settembre, thereâs a childrenâs playground and a place to grab snacks and drinks.
Have Fun at the Delicious Gelato Museum
Bologna Gelato Museum is just outside the city and great for kids! The museum has exhibitions about the history of gelato. But even better than that, there are labs, workshops, and hands-on activities for kids, all gelato-themed, including a gelato class!
See a Dinosaur at Museo Cappellini
If you have a child who loves dinosaurs and fossils, you should bring them to the paleontology section of Museo Cappellini. Here, they can see the fantastic dinosaur model. It is so big that it will leave an unforgettable impression!
Find a toy store for them!
My toy store recommendations are CittĂ del Sole, Giocheria and LEGO Store.
Take a Cooking Course
Use your hands to make your pasta or specialty dish! Cooking classes are excellent experiences for children, and what better place to take one than in the food capital of Italy?
The Ducati Museum is a must for little ones who love motorcycles.
It is located just outside Bologna but is easily accessible by bus from the city centre.
Discover the Parks in Bologna!
In Bologna, there are several green areas where your children can run around and have fun on the playground with other children.
Take the San Luca Expres Trenino
On weekends and holidays, the little trains leave from Piazza del Nettuno and on weekdays from Piazza Maggiore and tour the city to San Luca. The little trains are not only a great way to see part of the city, but they are also great on a rainy or hot day or for little legs to rest! For train tickets, visit Roundtrip San Luca Train Ticket.
Suggestion: If you have a stroller, you can take it on the train.
